Le Pêché Gourmand

A French-Australian couple runs this riverside restaurant in Briançon, where the Guisane keeps things cooler than the coast. She handles the kitchen, turning out modern seasonal plates where Mediterranean instincts show up in unexpected places, and he looks after the room and the wine. The cooking is precise without being stiff, and the crowd tends to be people who drove up from somewhere warmer and are pleasantly surprised to find a meal like this at altitude.

One honor, in evidence: