Le Relais de la Rance

The granite exterior looks like it's been here since the Gauls, but the dining room inside is clean and contemporary. This traditional French restaurant in a small Breton village earns a Michelin Bib Gourmand behind a chef who staged at Guy Savoy and La Tour d'Argent before landing here. The cooking is rooted in classics but handled with care, and the room fills up fast enough that booking ahead isn't optional so much as it is survival.

One honor, in evidence: