Les Trois Rochers

Perched on the Odet estuary between open water and a stand of pine and oak, this Michelin-starred restaurant at a hotel in Sainte-Marine is the kind of room where the view almost upstages the kitchen, almost. The chef draws almost entirely from Breton artisans and organic producers, then pulls in spices from further afield to keep things from feeling like a geography lesson. Langoustines and shellfish stock feature heavily, and they earn the attention.

One honor, in evidence: