L'initial

Stone walls, beamed ceilings, and hardwood floors set the scene at this classic French restaurant on a fountain square in the heart of Privas. The chef takes no liberties with the logic of French cooking, just quietly makes it more pleasurable, glazed sweetbreads arriving with fragrant jus and a lift of lemon zest. A summer terrace opens onto the square, and the two small dining rooms feel like they've always been there.