Mamma - Les Roches Brunes

The dining room of this hotel restaurant hangs above the rocks with the Château royal de Collioure sitting directly across the water, close enough to feel like a set piece. The kitchen leans into Catalan coastal cooking, pulling from local seafood and markets, with a modern edge that keeps things from feeling like a history lesson. Bring an appetite and a table by the window if you can manage it.

One honor, in evidence: