Mearkas

Glass walls and a view of vegetable gardens and glamping tents in the Frisian countryside: Mearkas is a set-menu restaurant that practically argues for the detour from the highway on its own. The kitchen team grows much of what lands on the plate, pulling the rest from nearby suppliers, and the result is Frisian farmland flavors sharpened into something quietly precise. A digestif by the campfire closes the evening.

Two honors, in evidence: