MO

Twelve seats around a U-shaped counter, tucked behind the main restaurant at Dormy House Hotel, is about as intimate as a tasting-menu experience gets. The chefs serve and narrate each course themselves, which sounds theatrical until it isn't. Confit egg yolk with parmesan custard appears on every menu and seems to have earned a kind of permanent residency. The cooking is colourful and creative, and the wine pairings are well-matched.