Modest

Floor-to-ceiling windows look out over vineyards, which does make the Limburg countryside feel briefly borrowed from the French countryside. This is a one-Michelin-star restaurant where the chef, who apparently earned the name Modest at hospitality school, cooks exactly like it: no theatrical plating, just French technique with a quiet pull toward Asian flavour. The room is contemporary but warm, and the cooking follows the same logic.

One honor, in evidence: