Montalbano by Mirko Rainer

A hilltop trattoria on the Montalbano slope with a veranda and summer terrace that do most of the convincing before the food arrives. The contemporary Italian kitchen leans into seafood crudo and grilled dishes off a Big Green Egg, with a tasting menu that swings heavily toward meat. Order Champagne and there's a decent chance the owner appears with a saber, which is either thrilling or deeply alarming depending on where you're sitting.

One honor, in evidence: