N'uovo Vino e Cucina

Large windows frame the Tuscia Viterbese woodland at this modern Italian restaurant tucked inside a country resort outside Sutri. The kitchen takes traditional Lazio recipes as a starting point and works them forward with contemporary technique, leaning on local produce. Fresh pasta and dry-aged wild boar show up regularly, and the room's soft lighting does the kind of heavy lifting that a good candlelit table should.

One honor, in evidence: