Ó Fragón

From the upper part of Fisterra, this modern Galician restaurant looks straight out over the port, the estuary, and Langosteira beach, which means the view changes with the tide and so does what's on the menu. The kitchen follows the fish auction closely, and almost everything, from the sharing plates to the ten-course tasting menu, is built around seafood and organic vegetables. Save room: the spread of artisanal Galician cheeses with homemade bread is the kind of footnote that upstages the main text.

One honor, in evidence: