Osteria Dell'Unione

Vine-covered pergola in summer, warm low-lit room the rest of the year, this is an old-school osteria in the Langhe hills outside Barbaresco. The kitchen cooks Piedmontese home recipes to order, the kind passed down rather than invented, and the spinach frittata is the sort of dish that looks modest until you understand what modest can mean here. The wine list leans local and stays reasonable, which in this corner of Piedmont is its own small miracle.

One honor, in evidence: