Osteria il Moro

Osteria il Moro sits along Trapani's main thoroughfare with a terrace for watching the town go by. It's a contemporary Sicilian restaurant where the kitchen leans hard on the sea but makes room for a braised cheek dish finished with a centuries-old chocolate sauce that sounds wrong and tastes like the point of the whole trip. The wine list keeps things regional without feeling provincial. Dressier than a trattoria, less formal than you'd expect for cooking this considered.