Pau

The rice dishes are what people come back for, though the kitchen earns its keep across the whole menu. This relaxed, modern Mediterranean restaurant in Benicarló holds a Michelin Bib Gourmand, built on local ingredients and a light touch of creativity. The chef moves between pass and dining room explaining dishes to tables, which sounds like it could be much but mostly isn't. Several set menus at lunch and two in the evening keep the decision-making manageable.

One honor, in evidence: