Restaurant de l'Hôtel de Ville

Regulars have called it simply "Crissier" for decades, which tells you something about its place in the Swiss culinary imagination. This is formal French fine dining at three Michelin stars, built on a succession of legendary chefs and now in the hands of Franck Giovannini, who keeps the Gallic classics precise and unfussy. The wine list, handled by a young sommelière, holds its own. Service is polished without the usual performance.

One honor, in evidence: