Restaurant Krainer

The menu credits the pigeon to a named farmer, the kohlrabi to another, and the cherries to their own garden, which tells you most of what you need to know about this upscale restaurant in a small Austrian village. The chef works through reinvented classics in a four or six course set menu, with the kind of attentive front-of-house that actually knows the wine list. A casual Wirtshaus option sits next door for when the occasion doesn't quite call for brioche dumplings.

One honor, in evidence: