Reua Thai

Wooden ornaments and a rough-hewn dining room in a Limburg village don't immediately scream Thai restaurant, but the cooking here earned a Michelin Bib Gourmand and makes a convincing case for the detour. The chef grows some of her own produce, sources locally, and builds flavors slowly, infusing beef stock with cinnamon, lemongrass, and coriander until the broth does real work. The set menu is the move.

Two honors, in evidence: