Roble by Jairo Rodríguez

The cheese trolley and tableside carving set the tone before the food even arrives. This is a quietly serious Asturian restaurant on the edge of town, where the kitchen leans into the region rather than away from it, pulling fish from a trusted local supplier and giving traditional cooking a careful modern nudge. The tasting menu runs long; the à la carte is the more relaxed way in. A couple runs the room, one per side of the kitchen pass.