Salt & Silver

A St Pauli restaurant perched above the Elbe, Salt & Silver pitches itself as "wanderlust cuisine," which turns out to mean a rotating à la carte that roams freely from Szechuan oil to salsa verde without any apparent guilt. The sharing menu changes on the kitchen's whim, and the wine list has been put together with genuine care. The room is relaxed in the way that comes from a front-of-house team that actually seems happy to be there.