Sandro's

Sixteen covers in a snug Lyme Regis dining room, with a chef who grew up here and cooked his way back. The menu is Modern British with flashes of Italian running through it, unfussy and direct in the way that only confident cooking tends to be. The Michelin Guide has it selected. His partner runs the floor with the ease of someone who enjoys the work, and together they make a small room feel like exactly the right size.

One honor, in evidence: