Sète

A former sweet shop with bow windows on the road between Margate and Broadstairs, Sète squeezes a restaurant, wine bar, and bottle shop into one small room without it feeling like a party trick. The kitchen leans on classical French technique but keeps things resolutely British and produce-led, with short menus on a blackboard that change constantly. Nothing is overworked, which takes more discipline than it sounds.

One honor, in evidence: