Sisè

The open grill is the spine of everything at this informal neighborhood restaurant in Cappont, where the chef came back to Lleida after time in serious kitchens and named the place for his grandparents. Contemporary Catalan cooking with smoke woven through it, the kind that makes cod and celery feel like a genuine idea. The kitchen opens onto the dining room, with a counter seat if you want to watch each dish come together. The Michelin Guide has given it a Bib Gourmand.