Stancija Kovačići

A farmhouse turned country restaurant tucked below the Učka mountains, a short drive from Opatija, where the kitchen builds the menu almost entirely around Istrian ingredients. The star is boškarin, the local cattle breed, and the slow-braised shank is the thing to order. Fish appears on the menu, but this is a meat-and-land kind of place, run by a family that has never felt the need to complicate what the region already does well.

One honor, in evidence: