't Ganzenest

The building has the kind of authentic old-world charm that takes decades to earn, and the kitchen earns its Michelin star by leaving it largely undisturbed. This is a classic French fine-dining room where the chef lets premium produce, turbot, veal sweetbreads, wagyu, do the talking, then builds around it with sauces that have real depth. The waitstaff's enthusiasm for the cheese and wine trolley is genuinely hard not to catch.

Two honors, in evidence: