't Havenmantsje

A converted courthouse on the harbor at Harlingen, where the conservatory tables look straight out over the water and the passing boats do most of the decorating. This French-leaning restaurant runs from lunch through dinner, with the kitchen moving between the classic and the contemporary without making a fuss about it. A steak tartare stays faithful; a roasted fennel dish goes somewhere more surprising. The Michelin Guide has it on their radar.

Two honors, in evidence: