TheVagar Countryhouse

A former count's country estate on 245 hectares of mountain land above Belmonte, converted into six adult-only suites named after abstractions, Hope, Balance, Simplicity, each pointedly without a television. Mountain spring water feeds the infinity pool; massages use locally pressed olive oil. Fifteen kilometers of private walking trails start at the door, and the picnic baskets are made by local craftsmen, which feels like the right level of commitment.