Tollius

Burgundy and white walls hung with contemporary art set the tone at this sleek Dutch restaurant, where the cooking moves between hearty French classics and sharp modern detours. A pithivier filled with quail, foie gras, and morels anchors one end; a wasabi-and-lemon-gel dessert lands at the other. The wine list is long enough to suggest the team has opinions. It's in the Michelin Guide, which fits the room.

Two honors, in evidence: