Wild

A copper-topped counter and a fire pit sit at the center of this interactive restaurant, built into a courtyard marquee at a hotel whose walls are hung with Banksys and Damien Hirsts. The chef cooks over the flames in front of you, which sounds theatrical until you notice how restrained the food actually is. Scallops with Indonesian butter, simple on paper, quietly meticulous in practice. The room earns its drama; the cooking earns its quiet.