Wirtshaus Steirereck am POGUSCH

A farm-to-table country inn up in the Styrian hills where the kitchen runs on its own produce and whatever the surrounding land offers. The weekly rhythm shifts from garden and forage nights to freshwater fish to offal, which tells you the kitchen is serious. The Schankkuchl does communal fire-and-steam cooking Thursday through Saturday for a livelier table. A Michelin Bib Gourmand, with a terrace view that makes the drive feel like a plan.

One honor, in evidence: