Ynyshir

A glitter ball spins over one of Wales's most talked-about tasting menu restaurants, which tells you something. Gareth Ward's two Michelin-starred room in rural mid-Wales is stripped back and Japandi-calm, but the food is anything but: around thirty courses of Asian-inflected cooking, edgy and precise, running five hours from early evening. The black-painted exterior does not suggest a country house hotel, which is rather the point.

Three honors, in evidence: