Zicht

Floor-to-ceiling picture windows frame a sweeping panorama of the Flemish Ardennes, which tells you immediately what kind of place this is: a Franco-Belgian restaurant where the view and the cooking compete for your attention. A veteran couple runs the room with practiced ease, she in the dining room and he in the kitchen, turning out seasonal set menus that lean classical without feeling stuck in the past. The terrace, when the weather cooperates, makes the whole thing harder to leave.

One honor, in evidence: