The Best Places to Eat Near Under, by the Record
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Rank 1. Under
Modern Seafood
The dining room sits five meters below the surface of the North Sea, with panoramic windows looking out into open water. You descend an oak-and-steel staircase to get there, which sets the mood before a single dish arrives. Under is a Michelin-starred tasting menu restaurant built around the seasonal seafood just outside the glass, handled with the kind of restraint that trusts the langoustine to do the talking.
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Rank 2. Boen Gård
Modern French
The kitchen sources its fish from the Tovdal River just outside the window, which tells you most of what you need to know about how seriously this place takes its setting. A tasting-menu restaurant on a restored estate outside Kristiansand, it serves modernized French cooking built around produce from the surrounding gardens and small organic farms nearby. The wine cellar is serious, and the quiet is absolute.