The Best Pizza Near Pa.te.os, by the Record

The terrace looks straight out over the Tagus, which is a fine place to eat a wood-fired Neapolitan pizza. Vela Latina sits in the small riverside village of Sarilhos Pequenos, next to the local sailing club, and leans into the nautical theme with white-and-blue walls and vintage yacht photographs. The dough gets a long ferment and a hot oven, and the crust comes out airy with those charred leopard spots. Named among 50 Top Pizza Europe's Excellent Pizzerias.

1. 50 Top Pizza 50 Top Pizza Europe Excellent Pizzerias

Two wood-fired ovens anchor Mano a Mano, one for Roman-style, one for Neapolitan, and the kitchen treats the difference as a friendly argument worth having nightly. Herringbone floors, round marble tables, and Italian cinema posters give the room an easy elegance. The Neapolitan dough gets a long, slow rise before it meets the fire; the Roman side keeps things crispier and flatter. A solid Italian-Portuguese wine list and tiramisu round things out.

1. 50 Top Pizza 50 Top Pizza Europe Excellent Pizzerias

A no-reservations pizzeria in Cais do Sodré where the dough ferments for two days and the crust arrives at the table properly airy and charred. The room is small with vintage stucco ceilings and a few tables outside, and a queue out front is the normal state of affairs. The combinations lean creative, the natural wines are short-listed but sensible, and the only dessert is a salted caramel cheesecake. Come prepared to wait.

1. 50 Top Pizza 50 Top Pizza Europe Excellent Pizzerias