The Best Yakitori in Kyoto

Cooks in twisted headbands working the grill over high flame is the first thing you clock at this Michelin-starred yakitori counter in a converted machiya townhouse. The name roughly translates to "the future of yakitori," which is either a bold claim or a mission statement, and the skewers of Fukushima chicken make a quiet case for it. The liver-and-chochin combination has become a signature for good reason.

1. Michelin Guide 1 Star

A yakitori counter where the chicken sourcing is taken seriously enough that spring, local, and brand-name birds each get their own slot on the menu, with cuts running far deeper than the usual suspects. Most come salted rather than sauced, which lets the differences actually register. The Michelin Guide gave it a Bib Gourmand, and the room fills every night partly for the food and partly because the chef runs his student staff with the warmth of a slightly proud parent.

1. Michelin Guide Bib Gourmand

A yakitori counter where the chef grills free-range Hinai-jidori chicken over both charcoal and wood flame, a combination you don't see often. The chicken is aged to concentrate its flavor before it ever meets the fire, and every skewer is built in an inverted triangle, which sounds fussy until you see it. The meal opens with a single skewer of breast meat, a quiet way of saying: pay attention to what's actually in front of you.

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant

1. Michelin Guide Selected Restaurant