Agorregi

Sitting inside an industrial estate is not the obvious move for a Basque restaurant, yet here Agorregi is, doing it without apology. The menu runs à la carte or through two tasting menus, all rooted in market-driven Basque cooking with the occasional contemporary flourish. One practical note: some desserts need to be ordered upfront so the kitchen can prepare them, which is either charming or a test of your planning instincts.

One honor, in evidence: