Badageoni

Khachapuri, the boat-shaped bread stuffed with molten cheese and a raw egg yolk you stir together yourself, is reason enough to make the drive to this Georgian restaurant in Mount Kisco. The room is warm and unfussy, Edison bulbs over dark wood, and the menu reads like a gentle introduction to a cuisine most tables are encountering for the first time. Ground lamb kebabs wrapped in lavash show up at nearly every table.

One honor, in evidence: