Bistrot Loiseau du Morvan

The rotunda dining room has old terracotta floors, a timber ceiling, and enough Burgundy swagger to make you feel underdressed in linen. This is the casual bistro counterpart to the Loiseau family's fine-dining institution across the way, which means the cooking leans into regional classics, eggs in red wine sauce, chicken à la Gaston Gérard, the kind of food that earns its place by tasting exactly like it should. The terrace catches the afternoon light nicely.