Black Swan

Exposed beams, flagged floors, and an open fire announce that this was a pub once, though the tasting menu format means you won't be propping up the bar. The kitchen at this Michelin-starred country restaurant runs on produce from its own farm and two acres of growing beds, supplementing with pickling and preservation when the fields go quiet. The village of Oldstead is genuinely in the middle of nowhere, so arriving here is a decision, not an accident.

Two honors, in evidence: