Brío

A terraced dining room with a church view is the setting for this wood-fired Oaxacan restaurant in the city center. The menu leans into local ingredients with a quiet Mediterranean undercurrent, and the grill does most of the heavy lifting. Proteins arrive with that particular smokiness you can only fake badly at home. The peanut mole draws the most conversation, and the poleo-infused crème brûlée signals that the kitchen knows when to leave a classic alone and when not to.

One honor, in evidence: