Burrata

The wood-burning oven is the center of gravity here, and the whole room orients itself accordingly: open floor plan, lots of windows, oyster-colored walls that feel more downtown than suburban strip. It's a pizza shop that earns a Michelin Bib Gourmand by threading the line between neighborhood red-sauce joint and something a little more considered. The namesake burrata pizza, heavy with mushroom fragrance, is what people come back for.

One honor, in evidence: