Caleña

The name refers to the stone the city walls are built from, and the restaurant sits right alongside them in a glass-fronted garden annexe of a historic hotel. It's a tasting-menu spot where the young chef works through the deep roots of Castilian cooking, stews and grilled meats and garden produce, though with enough modern technique that a prawn-pine-pine nut combination apparently makes sense. Finishing touches happen tableside, which keeps things lively.