Caleta 111 Cevicheria

A Peruvian ceviche shop tucked just under the elevated train tracks in Richmond Hill, earning a Michelin Bib Gourmand without much fuss about its location. Tree stumps with cushions serve as patio seating, and Latin music hits you at the door. The leche de tigre arrives in a martini glass with octopus, scallops, and shrimp, and the pork tamal, steamed in bamboo, makes a quiet case for itself from the corner of the menu.

One honor, in evidence: