Calipso Fish

A seafood restaurant on the Küçükyalı waterfront where the mezze fridge does most of the selling, and the waiter talks you through it like he means it. The kitchen cooks your fish to order, simply and without fuss, letting whatever came off the boat that morning carry the meal. Sun, sea breeze, and a plate of grilled sea bass: it's the kind of lunch that makes Istanbul's traffic feel like someone else's problem.

One honor, in evidence: