Cannavacciuolo by the Lake

The terrace here, hovering over Lake Orta on a warm evening, does a lot of the kitchen's work before a plate arrives. This is a fine dining room inside a boutique hotel, holding a Michelin star, where the chef runs a Mediterranean-leaning menu with two tasting routes, one pulling toward the lake, one toward Naples. À la carte is available for anyone not in the mood to be guided. Petit fours close the meal, which feels about right.