Cellar Door

A French restaurant inside an old town hall in a small Dutch river town, which is not something you think to say often. The kitchen runs a single set menu, the kind where every plate arrives looking like someone spent the afternoon thinking about it. The chef and the front-of-house both trained at serious places, and the combination of ambition and actual hospitality is hard to fake, so they mostly don't bother trying.

Two honors, in evidence: