Cinq

A contemporary villa near the Brussels ring road that runs on gutsy, big-boned French cooking. The chef trained classically and still shows it, but the menu moves with the moment: rich sauces, carefully handled fish, flavors that feel considered rather than fussy. The room has a casual, buzzy energy that makes the whole thing feel like a celebration even when it isn't one, which is a neat trick for a place this polished.

One honor, in evidence: