Côté Jardin

The kitchen here is supplied by a market gardener growing more than 300 varieties of vegetables, fruit, and herbs, which tells you almost everything about the menu before you sit down. This Michelin-starred creative restaurant on the Loire leans heavily into produce, brightened with citrus and the occasional Asian inflection, with seafood threading through when the chef feels like reminding you he hasn't forgotten the ocean. Quietly serious cooking in a quietly serious room.

One honor, in evidence: