Crustum

A deli counter full of pâté en croûte, foie gras, and pies greets you at the door, which sets the tone for this market-square restaurant in Abbeville. The couple behind it cook and run the floor together, turning out precise modern plates where the combinations are thought through rather than showy. Desserts get the same attention as the savory side, which isn't always the case.

One honor, in evidence: