Da Vittorio

The cheese trolley alone arrives like a small, slow ceremony, which tells you something about the pace of an evening at Da Vittorio. This is a three-Michelin-star fine dining restaurant outside Bergamo, run by the Cerea family with an ease that makes a twelve-course tasting menu feel like Sunday lunch at a very gifted relative's house. The cooking is rooted in Italian tradition, generous in spirit, and entirely uninterested in being cold or clever for its own sake.

Two honors, in evidence: