Eirado

Bare stone walls in a tucked-away old-quarter building set the mood at this Michelin-starred restaurant in Pontevedra's historic center. The chef buys fish and seafood from the Ribeira auction each morning, then folds in ideas gathered from Mexico, Japan, and elsewhere without losing the Galician thread. Two tasting menus offer different lengths, and the sommelier's wine pairings have a habit of surprising people.

One honor, in evidence: